15 December 2023 · Mazda Stories
A Thread of Inspiration
The story of the Japanese art of kumihimo is one of creativity, beauty, and an enduring challenger spirit for survival.Â
Words Mariko Kato / Images Showen Kumihimo and Domyo
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What links Mazda cabin interiors to iPhone straps and kimono obi cords (obijime)? The common thread is kumihimo, the traditional Japanese art of braiding. The intricately handcrafted cords have sat at the centre of local communities for over 1,300 years, adorning temple furnishings, connecting swords to samuraiâs waists, and decorating womenâs kimonos, and are now modern-day accessories â also providing inspiration for the stitching in the First-Ever Mazda CX-90.
The art of kumihimo has adapted so well over the ages thanks to an unrivalled combination of practicality and creative potential. âThere are many varieties of colours and patterns you can choose from to make just one kumihimo cord,â says Shun Hatta, handcrafter at Kyoto-based maker Showen Kumihimo. âIt combines art and function better than any other type of cord.â
The practicality of kumihimo cords meant that for centuries they were ubiquitous in everyday life, holding heavy materials together in armour and kimonos, as well as binding scrolls and hanging amulets. The uplifting beauty of kumihimo braiding also inspired the wearer to use it for self-expression. âThe kumihimo colours and patterns chosen for a samuraiâs armour reflected how he felt going into battle,â says Shuhei Kobayashi, handcrafter at Tokyo-based kumihimo maker Domyo. âKumihimo was also a fashion statement â the cords on the samuraiâs scabbard would have lots of variations.â
To create a quality kumihimo piece, the artist needs to master skills that have been refined through the ages, from selecting the right yarn and dyeing it to interlacing the threads over a specialised loom to create a unique design. For Kobayashi, the trickiest part is keeping a constant rhythm and a steady hand during braiding. âI empty my mind and concentrate â I donât let anything external disturb me,â he says.Â
COMMON THREADS
In Japan, the meticulous craft of knotting, be it securing a traditional warriorâs helmet strap or fastening a kimono, transcends into artistic expression. Drawing inspiration from musubu â meaning âto connectâ or âtie togetherâ â Mazda's designers embraced a distinctive stitching approach for its interiors (pictured) called kakenui. This hanging stitch technique introduces subtle spacing, reminiscent of the ties seen on ancient Japanese harnesses and armour, which would accommodate the natural movement of the human body. In the Mazda CX-90 (pictured), kakenui evokes a sense of connection between the car and its driver. Similarly, the gaps between the kakenui stitching add both depth and dimension.
The braiding process has been mechanised in recent years, but kumihimo artists still swear by the unmatched quality of a handmade product. âIntricate work like embedding images or words into the design still needs to be done by hand,â explains Hatta. For Kobayashi, itâs the human touch that makes the finished piece complex and delicate. âThe finished cord canât be too hard or too soft,â he says. âYou need to bring out a warmth in a way that a machine canât.âÂ
The art of kumihimo is also one of true challenger spirit, having relied on the makerâs skill and imagination to endure. Throughout its long history, kumihimo has faced moments of near-extinction â first when the samurai class was dissolved in the late 19th century and, more recently, when women in Japan began favouring Western fashion over kimonos for everyday wear. The art form has survived because its devotees kept reinventing it, making it relevant by incorporating kumihimo braiding into an ever-widening range of products, and thinking outside the box to capture the heart of the modern consumer.Â
Now kumihimo braiding is part of global popular culture and pops up in surprising places. For example, fans of the One Piece anime series would love the official collectorsâ item bracelet made by Showen Kumihimo in collaboration with the creators of the 2017 Japanese TV version. And, during COVID-19, you could send your overseas friend a lucky charm featuring the colours of their national flag â Showen Kumihimo made charms for 201 countries and territories around the world.Â
Beyond novelty items, kumihimo braiding has now branched out into Western-style fashion. Those in search of a unique gift can buy kumihimo ties, belts, earrings, and card cases through Domyoâs online store. If you visit Kyoto during a holiday to Japan, you can try your hand at kumihimo braiding and learn from the masters at Showen Kumihimoâs visitor-friendly workshops.Â
Yet the most special thing about kumihimo is that itâs a traditional Japanese art that you can easily turn into a hobby without leaving your couch or spending a fortune. Go online and there are affordable starter kits that you can buy with a click of a button.Â
If your focus is not as great as Kobayashiâs, fear not, you can always fix a mistake. âIf you notice something wrong, itâs probably because youâve skipped a step,â he says. âUnravel what youâve done, making sure to go back a little further than you think is necessary. Otherwise, once you start again you often find that you hadnât gone back quite enough.â
Hattaâs advice is to simply let your creativity soar. âThe important thing is to just try lots of different braiding styles and colour combinations,â he says, âand explore the beauty of kumihimo.âÂ